River crossings in Iceland
“You are clearly in your element, Katie….” - what a wonderful way to round up a 10 day trip to Iceland, volunteering as a Race Doctor.
At the start of the week, I felt quite the opposite. I wasn’t relaxed as the trip had come round quickly after a much needed break from work and a last minute approval to extend my MSc assignemt.
Before the flight to Manchester, I recruited the girls to help me pack my bag for the expedition; I have fond memories of pouring over camping and outdoor brochures as a child and I hope to pass on a sense of adventure to the girls. Aside from lots of giggling and our cocker spaniel Mera, sprawling across the carefully piled clothes to suit all weather conditions, the packing was complete and I ventured south on a Loganair flight early the next morning.
We flew to Reykjavik on the 22nd August, joining an experienced and committed crew with our larger than life energy and camaraderie that was forged in the Sahara last April. Lindsey, Lydia and I built a formidable friendship through our experience as part of the first British volunteers to join the legendary Marathon des Sables and this only grew stronger over the course of this expedition, most notably through the addition of Miles.
Arriving into Akureyri after midnight, there was much excitement realising we had a hot tub and apartment for the first two nights of the trip. The next morning, it was time to sort out all the expedition kit, learn how to put up and pull down the tents and checkpoints and then the three of us had the pleasure of sorting out the medical kit before the runners arrived for their mandatory kit and medical checks.
What’s this all about, I hear you ask? This was the 13th edition of the Fire & Ice Ultramarathon - a 6 day, 250km foot race across the highlands of Iceland. An opportunity to embrace the elements, leave the ups and downs of day to day life and live simply, surrounded by new friends, lava fields and volcanoes.
On the Sunday morning, we left for the Highlands, stopping en route to witness the majestic falls at Goðafoss before it was our turn to brave the water up close and cross two rivers as we ventured further into the Vatnajökull National Park. Those earlier doubts that came with me from home, soon vanished as I focussed in the moment and drove the VW Caravelle (not one of the 4x4 Toyota Hiluxes) across the first river. What a feeling of pure exhilaration!
Arriving into camp at Herðubreiðarlindir, the tents were already up and we marvelled at Mt. Herðubreið, the Queen of Icelandic Volcanoes rising above us in the distance. The midges were in force around the beautiful streams flowing around the Thorsteinsskáli Hut which we had use of and the feeling in the camp was one of excitement and somewhat intrepidation for the week ahead.
Day 1 - 36km - Herðubreiðarlindir to Dreki - Ferðafél
It’s always a buzz setting up the checkpoints and waiting for the runners to start arriving. Even more so when you’re Checkpoint 1 (aka CP1) and can set the tone for the rest of the race. Unbeknownst to the runners, Lindsey and I had been working on our pom pom routines back in Akureyri so we were ready to get the party started.
The timelapse gives a good close up of the terrain - a mix of volcanic ash (the type and colour depending on the year of the eruption), lava and sand. Certainly not the easiest to negotiate underfoot and there’s always a need to go with caution on the first day and get a feel for the race and let the legs ease into it.
Once through CP1, the runners went off the main 4x4 road and over the lava fields to CP2. Our job was done and so we packed up the gazebo, chairs and kit, sweeping away any evidence that we had occupied the area for the previous couple of hours.
The stages continued like this ebbing and flowing through wild landscapes, sandstorms, rain and shine - the distances
Day 2 - 48km - Dreki - Ferðafél loop
Day 3 - 40km - Dreki - Ferðafél to Herðubreiðarlindir
Day 4 - 70km (long stage)
Day 5 - 42km
Day 6 - 14km
The finish line is always an emotional feat. We had participants who had sadly withdrawn from the race who were dealing with their thoughts, imaging what could have been and yet still rallying rounds of applause for each runner arriving with exhilaration and sheer exhaustion as their 250km journey comes to an end. The finish line often gets so much attention however it doesn’t represent the months and months of preparation that goes in to an ultramarathon. The training, organising the necessary kit and keeping the weight and load distributed as minimally and evenly into the running rucksack as possible, choosing which shoes to wear, selecting gaiters and deciding on poles as well as working out how best to fuel a 6 day ultramarathon and carry all of that with you. That preparation alone is a marathon.